It’s an Exciting Season for Jewelry—6 Designers Pushing The Conversation
byKBN-
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It's the customary steps that define the ritual of getting dressed: undergarments first, then clothes, and lastly jewelry (or accessories) as the finishing touch. But sometimes a piece of jewelry is so good that it demands to be the center of it all. Asserting itself as the star, rather than a supporting cast member. In direct contrast to the minimalist jewelry wave that brought us dainty micro huggie earrings and barely there chains, is a pool of emerging designers that are thinking big with their pieces. Their creations feel like works of art worthy of museum exhibits than simply items to fancy up an outfit. The metal is chunkier, the stones more ornate, and the designs more 3D and noticeably in your face than the jewelry we've noticed in a while. It's also interesting to note that the names behind these bold designs are relatively fresh faces on the fashion scene, recently emerging within the past few years.
From botany-inspired earrings to amorphic statement rings, keep clicking below to discover six rising brands making jewelry more than an afterthought.
Rest assured anytime you wear a piece from Hugo Kreit, people will be asking questions. It's not just that the pieces are astonishingly beautiful, but they're also so complex you can't help but stare in fascination. Paris-based creative Hugo Kreit is the man and the name behind the eponymous jewelry line. Launched in 2020, Kreit intended it to be an exploration of the relationships between "the artificial and the organic, the precious and the mainstream, and the digital and the traditional craftsmanship." Evidence of nature's influence is particularly apparent in the naming of each piece with designs like the "alga neck rope", the "iris ring" and the "oysters ear clip", where creations take on the name of plant and animal species. While Kreit focuses on different themes with each new collection, color and bold forms remain at the forefront.Less in your face, but a statement nonetheless is jewelry label Faris. Unlike others on the list, Faris isn't as much a new face in the jewelry game as the others (Faris Du Graf founded it in 2012), but its emphasis on artisanal craftsmanship and smaller-scale releases feel uniquely indie among a sea of mass produced lines. Those who favor a modern edge will take to Faris's sleek metal-heavy designs. The brand does statement earrings especially well, like its rectangular Cecile earrings which coincide with the return of big 80s inspired earrings.Danish stylist Veneda Carter has worked with everyone from Jerry Lorenzo to Kim Kardashian (during her Yeezy years), so when she releases something, people pay attention. Carter's personal style is experimental with heavy elements of streetwear (her signature has become extremely baggy pants with oversized tees) as seen in her recent collaboration with Timberland. For her next project, Carter has taken to designing jewelry. The overarching theme? Tactile designs that resemble clay forms mound by hand—her signature necklaces look like molten little pebbles bound together. Although distinctive, each piece is surprisingly wearable enough to be a part of a daily uniform. Famous figures like Megan Thee Stallion, Bad Bunny and Dua Lipa have worn Carter's creations, so By Veneda Carter is definitely on a roll.We've been noticing a shift from prim and proper Park Avenue pearls for a minute, but have yet to see anything like Mudd Pearl. Founded by model Yasmin Moon and creative consultant Mary Anderson, in the two years since Mudd Pearl was founded its funky jewelry has landed on the likes of cool girls like Hailey Bieber, Charli XCX, and Barbie Ferreira. Inspired by the "healing mechanics" of how pearls form from oysters, Mudd Pearl calls on the idea that "Holding a pearl is like holding a physical manifestation of one's own resilience." Each piece is handmade (so no two are exactly the same), adding to the feeling of something that feels highly unique. While jewelry has the tendency to unite people of all style allegiances and affinities, it'd be accurate to bet that if you like Khaite and The Row, then Louis Abel will especially appeal to you. The label, with its polished precious metal baubles and elegant designs, feels like an exercise in effortless sophistication. There are plenty of details that make Louis Abel unique—for instance, its curvy wave pieces which have become a signature motif—but nothing is too loud that it veers into ostentation. There's an easy elegance about them that perfectly compliments staples like a polished blazer or tailored trousers (but of course wearing them with jeans is always appropriate too). Born in Valencia, Simuero was formed by duo Rocío Gallardo and Jorge Ros. The brand uses a made-to-order model, which means each piece is uniquely crafted in the moment—it does not produce seasonal collections nor keep stock like most jewelry brands. A big takeaway is its emphasis on fluid forms—from its glorious statement rings to its hammered gold chokers, everything has an organic nature to it that looks distinct. Simuero also uses recycled materials such as brass and sterling silver, creating each piece by hand.
